In flavor, the anchovy has an equivalent range. It can be used to season fiercely, as it is in bagna couda, a hot bath made of garlic, anchovies, olive oil and butter that is served as a dipping sauce for vegetables like fennel, radishes and carrots. And it can be made to whisper, as it is in a risotto recipe from Second Helpings From Union Square Caf (HarperCollins) by Michael Romano and Dann Meyer.
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